North Shore Tramping Club
THE ROUTE: Te Paki Coastal Track (48km; 4 days)
Kapowairua (Spirits Bay) Campsite – Pandora Bay Campsite – Tapotupotu Bay Campsite – Cape Reinga – Cape Maria van Dieman – Twilight Campsite – Ninety Mile Beach – Te Paki Stream
Imagine four sunny days. Warm, not too hot. Cliffs and sandy beaches. Sand dunes and bridges across wetlands. Ocean and moon-like landscapes. Bush and open ridge lines. Climbing and descending. Stunning views everywhere you look and funny encounters along the way. That was the Anzac far-north trip in a nutshell, but wait, there’s more. I asked members of our out party to contribute their most memorable funny stories of this trip. They are all very well written and funny! Read on to get transported to New Zealand’s far north and experience snippets of our trip for yourselves.—Monika Coles
Highlights from the Far North
I’m not very knowledgeable when it comes to New Zealand flora and fauna, but I would like to comment on fauna that I encountered.
First, there were the seabirds around Pandora Bay and the birds along the coast south of Cape Reinga.
Second were the curious mushroom-stalk-like creatures with their flat-topped sandy “hair” that emerged from the sand on the beach just below the tideline.
Twilight Beach campsite was well populated with possums (imported fauna), so it was quite a shock to be woken up at about 10.30 pm to see a possum with its face pressed up against my tent inner—fully zipped up, I might add!. Needless to say, the possum beat a hasty retreat in response to my vocal and physical reaction.
There was one other encounter with the native fauna that I found puzzling and intriguing, and I managed to get a photo of it to share.
How Not to Choose a Camping Spot
Day two was a short hike from Pandora Campsite at the end of Spirits Bay to Tapotupotu Beach Campsite … fantastic views from high along the rocky coast and finally down to the Tapotupotu estuary and beach, with the bright yellow bus parked proudly in the middle.
There was plenty of space on the grass along the estuary to erect our tents. Most chose spots near the bus, but, wanting privacy and quiet, I chose a great spot under a pohutukawa tree some distance away, with not a soul nearby.
Although the sun was shining, there was a fierce wind blowing up the estuary and I decided that my spot was too sandy. Moving the erect tent by myself was challenging. I didn’t want to take it down, so I very nearly lost it completely as it flew, ducking, diving and dancing like a kite behind me as I gingerly backed up to my alternative spot. The tent was flapping so vigorously I was frightened it would tear itself apart. Either that or my pegs (held in one hand ready to pin it down in the new position) would accidentally pierce the fly.
But finally I secured it in the new position, with four enormous rocks ensuring that it would not take off by itself again.
After a great swim, and trying to body surf in the lovely rolling waves, I returned to find my tent now hemmed in on three sides by two vans and a car. So much for my secluded spot.
And later that night, instead of being peacefully serenaded by the gently pounding surf I was “entertained” by bass-ridden music, followed by the clanging of fishing gear, pots and pans, and a disstressed child’s howls.
Finally, in desperation, I clambered out of my sleeping bag to confront my inconsiderate neighbours. My headtorch shone on a rather tall fisherman sharpening his extremely long knife. Discretion is the better part of valour, I thought, as I silently retreated back into my tent and tried to stick my earplugs even further inside my ears. No wonder I was ready to get out of there next morning thirty minutes before departure time.
(However, I did have the dream spot at Twilight Camp on the following night.)
Possum Encounter at Twilight Campsite
We were well warned about the possums—there was a hut book in the shelter, and other trampers had mentioned them—so several of us suspended our food bags from the rafters a metre or so above the ground and hoped for the best.
My tent was only a few metres from the shelter, and on several occasions I was woken up by furious snarling and scuffling just outside. When I went out just after dawn, I was not surprised to find that the plastic bags that had been hanging up had been torn to shreds and the contents strewn over the ground.
Luckily, my coffee, milk powder and drinking chocolate were all in tough plastic containers and were still intact. I’d put other food inside a small billy with its lid tied on and that had defeated them.
It was the last night of the trip, I didn’t have much food left, and in the end the possums did not get much from me for all their trouble. Only a packet of instant noodles (they didn’t bother with the sachets of spices and sauces). They must have had a furious fight over that, too, because there was a lot of fur on the ground. Enough, as one of our party observed, to make a pair of nipple warmers!
We arrived at Tapotupotu campsite by mid-day on Anzac Sunday. What do you do first when you get to camp? Put up your tent, of course. I placed my tent on a likely spot and set off to explore the campground. Within minutes a “dear” member of our party had his tent up, intruding on my space.
What can you do? You accept the situation with good grace and ignore his orange crocks.
And what do you do after the tent is up? Make a hot drink, of course. I set out my gear near the bus. By now my dear friend had decided to move his tent closer to the bus.
“Your gear is blocking my tent site,” he said.
What was his problem? Not being a psychologist, I couldn’t answer that question. But low and behold, there was my original site, waiting for my tent. So when it comes to tenting etiquette, patience can have its own rewards.
My Happy Places
We all join the away trips for different reasons. The Anzac away trip was part of my preparations for a trip to Morocco in August. So I was testing my gear and soaking up advice from my seasoned tramping mentors. John’s ultralight tent; and Roger’s recipes for dehydrated food, plus equipment for speedy boiling were impressive.
I struggled to use a lighter with my arthritic fingers to get that necessary flame, but with words of encouragement from those around me, finally a flame was achieved. More testing and learning!
My happy places are bush, beach and mountains, and the Anzac tramp certainly took me there. Wandering up the estuary amid massive sand dunes, I engaged in lighthearted banter. But, sorry, it didn’t sound like a marriage proposal to me.
Being risk adverse, my gear was zipped away safely in my tent each night, so I was somewhat amused by the possum attack at twilight. They certainly made their presence known.
A parting tip: it’s always nice to take a little extra something to share.
I think everyone will agree if I say that we all had a fantastic time up north. Last year bad weather forced cancellation of this trip, but the good weather definitely made up for it this year. There were many more stories we could have told, and there was one other thing that made this trip special: we had the pleasure of meeting the bus party halfway through the tramp. It was great to join with them for a night with their vino, suitcases of food, and games of cards. Heaps of fun! Thanks, Helen, for organising such an amazing trip.—Monika Coles
The day had finally arrived! Viv and I hopped on the cool yellow bus and joined the club for this exciting trip. This was our first multi-day trip with the club, and we were looking forward to seeing the familiar faces with their signature outfits; their much-loved tops and shorts, clean boots, and backpacks. We knew some would probably have hiking poles on hand as well.
I was surprised to find many colourful “pea pods” snuggling comfortably on the bus, which had been converted to a giant sleeping platform. I couldn’t stop myself from giggling. I felt like we were on our way to a kids’ camp. It was quite an experience, lying flat on a moving bus and looking at views of a star-speckled night sky. I closed my eyes and wondered—with eager anticipation—what tomorrow would bring.
Day 1: Spirits Bay to Pandora Bay
Some early birds were up before dawn, going about their routines, whatever they were. It took me a while to wake up fully and at first I wondered where we were. As planned, we left the Rawana Beach DOC campsite and travelled to Kapowairua, where the out party set off on their coastal tramp.
With the sun shining, we, the home party, followed a sandy track that was elevated above the seabed and overlooked the waves that tirelessly combed the shore. With a gentle sea breeze whispering in my ears as we wandered along the endless Spirits Bay, I felt blessed.
The track led us to a boardwalk across the Waitahora Lagoon, which separated us from the shore. The colours of the vegetation in the lagoon were vibrant against the reflections of light on the still water. We spotted a few ducks, dotterels and oystercatchers in the area. Just stunning.
It was an easy track to Pandora Bay. We popped into the Pandora campsite before we settled down for lunch. The out party had arrived and were busy setting up their tents. We returned to Pandora Bay for a swim before lunch. “Life is good,” I murmured to myself while we were having fun in the crashing waves.
On our way back to the Spirits Bay campground, the wine list and dinner menu were discussed once again. Both Viv and I were excited about camp meals, as the whole idea was completely new to us. I had several attempts at getting my camping cooker going. Finally, with help, we finally got our first camp meal prepared. Meanwhile, wine was poured, and crackers with smoked salmon and tomato slices were among the party. It was very enjoyable, and our plates were spotless afterwards.
Day 2: Tapotupotu Bay to Cape Reinga via Sandy Bay
Rain was expected in the morning, but we were lucky. We had a huge downpour in the middle of the night and it stayed dry all day.
Helen drove us to Tapotupotu Bay, where the out party was expected to camp alongside the club bus in the evening. We ascended to the cliff top after an easy stroll along the beach. The view of the bay was stunning. Needless to say, many photos were taken.
We followed the marked track up through the bushes; the lighthouse was visible on the tip of Aupouri Peninsula. What a spectacular view from there. And it was the perfect place for a tea break. I reckon the snacks tasted better there, too. We followed many (too many!) sets of big steps halfway down—the same steps that later caused me a lot of grief on the way back. An overgrown path led us to gorgeous Sandy Bay.
We continued our way along the coastal track. Oh no, I shouldn’t have looked up. The endless steep hill ahead crushed my spirit. I stopped a few times on the way, but eventually I joined the team at the lookout. It felt strange to see so many tourists in their jandals, walking leisurely on the concrete path while I was still huffing and puffing from the climb. It was interesting. Half an hour before, I had firmly believed I was lost in the wildness, but here we were, at the iconic Cape Brett lighthouse with people from all around the world, watching the churning currents where the two oceans merged.
Day 3: Te Werahi Loop Track, Twilight Beach and Cape Maria Van Diemen
Helen took us to Te Werahi Gate, where the loop track begins. We walked across paddocks with cows gazing at us, through manuka scrub and over the sand dunes to Twilight Beach. We found freshwater wetlands along Te Werahi Stream, and also interesting patterns we believed to be fossils.
Further down the track, we headed to Cape Maria Van Diemen, which was in our ten-o’clock direction. It was a spectacular landscape, with Motuopau Island taking the brunt of the endless roaring sea. At the foot of the Cape, we enjoyed our lunch and the majority went up to the top of the Cape afterwards. I enjoyed the walk along the shore, and soaked my weary toes in the crystal-clear water.
The weather was perfect. It was sunny, and the temperature was just right. Most importantly, we had no wind at all. I could well imagine what it would be like to have sand blasting in my face as I tramped through the dunes for hours …
On our return, we were excited to find a group of ladies from the out party, and later we spotted a few figures on a distant hill. I can only imagine how hard it must be to trek through this terrain with heavy packs on. They should feel proud of themselves.
As soon as Te Werahi Beach came in sight, we negotiated our steps over gigantic rock formations and descended to sea level. We came across a young fellow from Prague, who was asking for directions. It was nice that he later caught up with the out party, and rode in the bus with us for a few hours the next day.
It was time to cross the stream. Without hesitation, Helen and John made their move and I followed. When I reached the other side, Viv called out, “Did you get wet?” “No,” I said, knowing that Viv felt apprehensive about crossing with her boots on. “You just have to move fast.” Then I felt realised my socks felt a bit wet. “Oops, sorry Viv,” I mumbled, “I should’ve checked.”
After a small lagoon, the marked track took us to a sheer cliff with a loose, sandy surface. It was on a 60–70-degree angle, with visible loose footprints and slips. Apparently it was more than 40 metres high, but it looked more like 80 metres to me.
Later we went through some lovely shady bush. It took us a while to go through and we stopped for a drink at the end of a boardwalk over a dark clayish swamp. “You wouldn’t want to fall in there,” Karen said. She was right. That could be the start of a horror movie.
Before long, we came through the woods and found the bus on top of the hill, waiting patiently for our arrival. All we needed to do was cross a big stretch of uphill farmland. It was such an amazing track, with a range of landscapes and terrain. We walked seven hours that day. We were pretty tired, but we were still keen to go swimming when we got back.
Day 4: Tapotupotu Bay, boardwalk, bridge and beyond
We explored the area around the bay. The boardwalk was nicely done at the end of the campsite road. Across the bridge, the path led us up the hill to another stunning view of the bay. The majority of the party continued to explore the area.
This trip was such an amazing experience for me—to explore the spectacular landscape, and experience various types of terrain with a bunch of nice people, sharing some fun and laughs together. It was very special.
Thanks to our wonderful Helen for making this a great success. And thanks to our drivers, Bernhard and Campbell. Oops, nearly forgot to mention that I was also pleased to find a competitive bunch in the group when it comes to card games, and I was glad to see the righteous souls come to the rescue of settling the insignificant minority.
Good fun and great joy was shared by all.
What better way to spend an Easter weekend than in a beautiful place, among friends, doing what you love. That is exactly what happened for me while tramping on Great Barrier Island. Great company and a magical place.
We all arrived early to our meeting spot at Westhaven Marina on Easter Friday morning. It was a bit rainy, but we didn’t mind. We hopped on our two charter boats, chucked our bags in a cavity at the front of the boat to balance the weight and made ourselves comfortable for the ride.
Our boat needed to get some gas so we left a bit earlier to stop at a marine petrol station. Well, that was a new experience. A petrol station for boats—awesome!
Once on the open water, the other boat came into view and started to look like it was entering a race. That might also be part of the reason why they got us to Great Barrier Island in such a speedy time, beating travelling by ferry by an hour.
Perhaps also due to the speed, the boat ride was so much fun, although a bit wet, especially for the people at the back, when crashing waves made their way into the inside of the boat.
Later, as the waves got bigger, we even got a downpour from the roof as parts of the waves came over the top of the boat and down onto our heads. Luckily we all had raincoats so the water didn’t get behind our necks and down our backs.
When we arrived in Tryphena, Great Barrier, the sun was shining and it was lovely and warm. We all had a bit of free time while we waited for our two hire vans to arrive.
What an experience the local transport was. The roof coverings inside the van were coming off and there was plenty of rust, but and all credit to the drivers. They both managed to get these vehicles up onto the winding narrow roads in manual, which I don’t think the vans even knew they had or knew how to behave when using them. Wow, what a ride!
Once we got to the start of our track, we all found a spot right there, by the main road, and decided that it was as good as any to have some lunch. Why, I don’t know. We could have crossed the road and found a spot on the track, but I think we were just happy to have the transport adventure behind us, and needed to refuel before walking to our first destination, the Green Campsite.
The track was really nice right from the start. Gorgeous views of Te Ahumata (398m) did not let us wait for very long. At that point we didn’t know that some of our group would decide to take a detour a bit later on and summit this beautiful peak with white cliffs.
Te Ahumata summit is not a traditional summit. The top is a large, pretty much flat, overgrown area, and there’s quite a distance from one side to the other for views.
At the top there’s also a building structure, which is full of radio equipment of some sort, and on the door there’s a dedication to Bruce Comfort in recognition and appreciation of his work in establishing the land mobile radio network.
On the way down it started to drizzle a bit, but it didn’t last very long and soon we were approaching the Green Campsite, which was the place for our first night.
We all started to set up our tents after a bit of indecision about choosing the right spot. It was low tide, and there were beautiful views into the harbour so I chose to pitch my tent right on the bank’s edge. Perfect spot, I thought, despite some people’s concerns about high-tide water levels. Then I went to join all the others in the sheltered area in the middle of the campsite to make some dinner and have a recap on the day.
There were a lot of ants that were taking possession of all the wooden tables, so everyone was using a stainless-steel bench fitted in the corner of the shelter instead.
At one point one member of the party obviously thought enough was enough, and got up and smashed his fist on the top of one of the wooden tables, clearing himself a square piece of the table.
Believe it or not, it worked. No more ants came onto that cleared square for a long time after the hammer-like attack!
After a bit of rain in the night, the next day was again beautiful. We set off nice an early towards the Tramline Track. Our first stop was the Kauri Falls, a two-minute detour and well worth it.
Then we had a stop by the river for morning tea. I was very taken by the stunning clear water in all the rivers we came across on the island. Further up the track there was another detour to Maungapico peak (280m). It was a nice track with a little rock climbing at the top, which was rewarded with stunning 360° views.
Then we came back down and carried on Forest Road. This is a wide road shared with mountain bikers, but we only met a few. Not very far at all from the end of Forest Road was our next night spot, the Kaiaraara hut. It was pretty full already when we arrived, so some people chose to pitch their tents instead.
It was still quite early in the day, so after some food a few of us decided to take a walk to Port FitzRoy. It ended up being a bit longer then estimated, but oh my!
There was a general store,which was open when we got there, and we all had a beer (or two) and chips! What a treat in the middle of a four-day out-party tramp, not to mention more stunning views and a local giving some of us a ride part of the way back to the hut.
The next day we had a big climb ahead and, as we found out, a lot of stairs! Wow, I mean a lot! Some people powered through full steam ahead, while some, like me, got slower and slower the higher we went.
On the way, we made a stop and went to see one of the old kauri dams. Well, what’s left of them. They were very impressive.
Great Barrier was, once upon a time, a source of kauri, and it is also known for its whaling industry, honey export, a short-lived gold rush, and copper mining. It’s a beautiful place, this Great Barrier, and full of surprises.
After a stop at the top of Hirakimata (Mt Hobson) summit (627m) there was only a short walk down the hill to our next stop for the night, Mt Heale hut. This hut has stunning views during the day and beautiful sunset views over Little Barrier at night.
We arrived at Mt Heale Hut early, just in time for lunch. After everyone got settled, it was time to play a game.
Some of us were intrigued by the sound of the Monopoly game that claimed, on the packaging, that it could be played in twenty minutes. So a few of us huddled around a table and started to learn the rules of the game. Some players showed that being a property mogul came naturally to them. Others adopted a more calculated approach and soon got ahead by figuring out all the different strategies—and also being lucky enough to get all the right cards!
On the last day, we had heaps of time and we made a few stops before getting picked up. The first stop was Kaitoke Hot Springs. It was very pleasant and relaxing to soak in hot water after days of tramping, and we followed this with morning tea.
Some of us then left a bit earlier to have enough time to go exploring in the nearby Oreville stamping battery. The whole town of Oreville once surrounded the huge stamper battery of the Barrier Reefs gold mine.
Then it was time for our trusty hired van to come and pick us up. We were keen to hear all about what the home party had been up to while we were walking the Aotea Track. We even had time to stop at the pub for refreshments and another catch-up, which was an icing on the cake—a wonderful end to an even more wonderful trip.
Thanks, Annika, for organising!
The club trip to Great Barrier Island at Easter was nothing short of visually spectacular, with incredible views, amazing tracks, opportunities to swim in rivers, and beautiful beaches!
It all started bright and early on a calm Good Friday morning, with twenty of us meeting at pier 21 to meet our two very fast vessels from the Hauraki Express that took us to the island.
The trip over was awesome fun as we zoomed through the waves with seabirds all around us. We passed the car ferry with ease, and arrived on Great Barrier in two hours.
We were welcomed by stingrays that glided gracefully through the water by the wharf while we waited for the “barrier beasts”. (Those rental vans are are whole other story.)
We split into two groups when the rental vans arrived. The out party camped, and the home party stayed at Medlands Beach Backpackers & Villas.
The home-party lodgings worked out really well, with shared facilities and lots of resident native birds—definitely a bonus. Banded rails (they look like small weka, but not as cheeky and inquisitive), wood pigeons and kaka were constantly noshing on the fig and guava trees, and generally hanging out around our courtyard and rooms. Highlights were the rowdy, low fly-overs by nine kaka on Saturday morning and six on Sunday morning.
On Saturday morning the home party loaded into one of the vans, stopping for photos and to watch a surfing competition at a beach on the way to the volcanic rhyolite rock of Windy Canyon, and the highest point on the island, Mt Hobson. Although not that high at only 627 metres, there were 1000 steep steps up Mt Hobson to give the muscles a solid workout. The views through Windy Canyon and along the ridgeline up to Mt Hobson were absolutely superlative. Wow, just wow— 360-degree views!
After Mt Hobson, we were rewarded by a stunning swim at gorgeous Harataonga Beach on the way back to base.
With a full moon at its brightest on Saturday, we all headed down to the beach after dark to see the moon glowing absolutely gloriously.
On Sunday, another adventure on the western side of the island, Whangaparapara and Green Campsite, and a steep track up to an old logging area, then back down and along the Tramline Track—similar to the Incline Track in the Waitakeres but prettier. Some had an invigorating swim in the Kauri Falls swimming hole—and a few stream crossings.
Our destination was the Kaitoke Hot Springs Track, and we had a very soothing half-hour soak in the natural hot pools, with more banded rails moseying around.
We tore ourselves away from the relaxing hot pools to finish the track, skirting the wetlands back to our van.
On Monday, with only half the day to enjoy the island some more, half our group went to a bird sanctuary at Port Fitzroy and walk under the canopy of kauri.
The other half of the group walked down to Medlands Beach for a restorative beach yoga session, with the soothing sound of the waves caressing the foreshore beside us, and then swimming and walking afterwards. It was time to head back to catch our rapid charter boats home.
Our time on beautiful Great Barrier Island passed too quickly; we all wished we could have stayed longer to explore more.
A huge thank-you to organiser, Annika; drivers, Pete and Chris; Medlands for the home-party accommodation; and Hauraki Express boats for the very efficient and friendly service they provided. It wasn’t much over 1.5 hours back to Westhaven on the suitable tides.
If you’ve been thinking about coming out on a Sunday trip with the club but are unsure whether it’s for you, don’t hesitate any longer. You’re only a couple of steps away from joining in on one of our awesome away-trip experiences.
There was a good turnout for our trip to the stunning Karangahake Gorge, which meant a reasonably full bus and three groups.
My group had a great day. We headed up through the historic windows walk, and having promised glow worms, I think we saw a whole five!!! Oops! Glow worms on strike?!
Along to the base of the Dubbo 96 Track, which is where the other two groups started the climb to the summit, which, incidentally, is fairly progressive once you hit the main drag up the mountain.
But the summit wasn’t my group’s mission, so we made a beeline for our lunch spot near the gushing tunnel, and had an invigorating swim beforehand. We timed it nicely, as the bulk of people then started to invade our peace.
Thoroughly enjoying the different light as the sun moved across the sky, we crossed to the other side of the river over one of the quintessential Kiwi swing bridges.
There was so much history to take in along the way: the signage, historic equipment, old mining tunnels—some more obvious than others, and some collapsed inwards. Similar to the old Pump House, which is now closed due to a slip.
Our last slice of the past was the walk through the 1.1-kilometre rail tunnel, built in 1905, that has small seeping streamlets between some of the bricks. We made the most of the cooler tunnel before emerging into daylight, with the lure of swim number two in the main river near the carpark.
Another amazing day out with the club.
Starting at Little Shoal Bay, we walked on the freshly salt-burned grass from the recent high tides, over the bridge into Le Roys Bush, and up along the tracks, admiring the 20-metre-high waterfall as we passed and onto the new board-walked area to Hinemoa Street.
At the council stream-fish research area we spotted one of the native fish! At the lookout, we admired the stunning views across the treetops where we’d just walked.
We were tempted to stop at the cafe but, being good trampers, we kept walking towards the Chelsea Sugar Refinery’s new walking bridge and past their grounds to head back into the bush towards Kendall Bay and Kauri Point.
We were feeling the heat and humidity, so the cloud cover was welcome. We stopped to admire the view back across the Harbour Bridge, and passed a family that had been for a swim at gorgeous Kendall Bay. Although tempted to do the same, we took photos instead. We still had the steps to take on up to Onetaunga Road, with early lunch in the shade.
We headed back into the bush along the surreal little pathways and bridges by the gently trickling stream to Mappin Place, stopping to admire the two large kauri before reaching the Birkenhead War Memorial Park. Then into Kauri Glen and along the oak-tree lined path back to Le Roys Bush and the cars.
We had the company of gently trickling streams alongside us most of the day, but the ground was surprisingly dry in all bar a few places, including one small slip.
It was a pleasure to find an urban walk that had lovely secluded areas of bush and forest, where we could almost forget we were in suburbia.
Well, what can I say about the Mahurangi Open Day for newbies except that it was hugely successful! We had a good turnout of club members and big turnout of newbies, both novice and experienced trampers joining in for the experience.
Breaking into a few groups, we warmed up the muscles with a gentle hill climb, enjoying the stunning view from the top of the first hill and dropping down the other side to a low-tide knee-deep stream crossing. A new experience for some, they opted to take off their shoes, while the non-leathershoe people left theirs on.
With wet feet, my group explored the new area above Te Muri Beach, recently gifted to Auckland Council with some fun new tracks to explore, including a new bush track. We dropped back down through the long grass to the beach and headed around the foreshore to Pudding Island, and enjoyed a fantastic cooling shower on the way.
Pudding Island can only be accessed at low tide, and it’s still a wade through knee-deep water to the island—good fun!
By now everyone was ready to put their nose bags on to scoff down some lunch, so we headed back to Big Yellow (the bus) parked at Sullivan’s Bay.
After lunch, we headed off to catch the last of the low tide and walked around to the very pretty Mita Bay, then tackled the short but steep (80 metres) climb up to Tungutu Point. The killer views kept everyone’s cameras lit up.
By now, we were all feeling overly toasty in the very warm weather, so we went straight back down via the bush track to Sullivan’s Bay for a very refreshing swim. The perfect way to finish a summer tramp!
For those who missed out, or who haven’t been to this park before, it’s stunning and very much worth the visit for the variety of tracks and safe swimming, plus campgrounds.
This was a really cool tramp from Long Bay Regional Park to Okura return. Timing things right, our mixed group of keen newbies and members had time to scoot around the foreshore, making the most of the very low king tides, at two bays, on a slightly overcast morning. Perfect for a coastal tramp.
We went back along the cliffs, meeting other club members on the way. We were surprised to see that the storm hadn’t caused that much damage.
We spotted a variety of bird life, a monarch butterfly a long way from any swan plants, and lots of pretty coastal copper butterflies, too.
Needless to say, there were lots of photos taken along the way.
Photos from the Wangapeka/Leslie Karamea Trip
What makes for a great Christmas tramp? Good company, settled weather, a new route, some navigational challenges, extensive mountain views, beautiful campsites, and a loud dawn chorus. Our party of five—Beth, David, Helen, Karen M and Roger—had them all.
It was four hours to Fenella Hut on the first day, then our fun really began. We climbed 500 metres up through the bush, and onto the open tops near Waingaro and Kakapo Peaks. Not a cloud in the sky and massive views of mountain range upon mountain range; we were conscious of our tiny insignificance in a gigantic landscape.
After lunch we dropped steadily from 1800 metres down a narrow, rocky ridge to the bush line.
By mid-afternoon we emerged from the bush to one of the most delightful huts in the country. Lonely Lake hut had been splendidly refurbished with yellow-ochre walls and a deep blue roof, and insulation in the walls and plywood panelling inside. And joy and bliss, we had the hut all to ourselves. That afternoon we sat in the sun with our hot drinks and views down a very steep valley to the West.
In the morning we climbed up to Drunken Sailor’s peak, with views to Dragon’s Teeth and Adelaide Tarn. We could see the ridge ahead of us leading down to the Anatoki River, but couldn’t see any obvious way to get to it.
After some consultation, we took the wise step of keeping to the open tops and climbing up to a narrow ridge where there was a trail that made for easy going.
The 800-metre drop down through the beech trees took some time and various members of the party took a tumble.
After lunch we followed the Anatoki River down the valley. There was no track and it was slow going. We were sometimes in the river and sometimes bush-bashing to avoid rocks and windfalls.
It was a relief to meet the Anatoki Valley Track, which took us up to the saddle and down to the Stanley River. It was a 10-hour day, with great variety, some challenges and a great campsite at the end. Not another soul did we meet all day.
As the dawn broke, we had the longest and loudest dawn chorus I have ever heard. What a way to start the day. Our last day was up an old pack track through beech forest.
John Hoy, Trish and Gillian came in to meet us and transport us back to our accommodation at the Collingwood Motor Camp.
This trip was South Island tramping at its finest.